Wandering in the Kathmandu Valley

From Kathmandu Valley

I've always had a romanticized view of Nepal and the Himalayas. It was the mysterious place nestled between India and China that was a resting place for pilgrims, travelers, and merchants for thousands of years; Maybe one of the original melting pots in the world -- a glimpse of what the future could hold. Nepal was the place that absorbed so much culture from its surroundings and neighbors - yet distinctly remains well...Nepal. It was the home of the Himalayas and Mount Everest, the birthplace of Buddha, Ancient temples and UNESCO sites, Buddhist and Hindu shrines, and everything that captured my imagination since first locating it on a map in Mrs Renton's sixth grade social studies class.

From Kathmandu Valley

Arriving in Kathmandu can be overwhelming -- have patience and some passport size photos to streamline visa processing; You're not in Kansas anymore. I found the sights, the smells, and the pulse of the Kathmandu valley drumming to an unfamiliar beat. There was something going on in every corner I gazed and the backdrop was an ancient city with a mystery I knew I could only scratch the surface of. Anxious and jet lagged, I woke up at dawn our first full day in Kathmandu; I had to get out there. Walking around the open air markets and seeing bags of colorful spices reminded me of Cochin. The amount of functional art in the form of ancient shrines and stupas in the valley was astonishing. Sitting on the raised floor in the Tibetan prayer flag shop, I kept gazing out over the square and getting distracted by all the sights and sounds.

From Kathmandu Valley

I watched in awe countless times as common people made early morning offerings to statues of Ganesh and Saraswati from the 4th or 5th century. Seeing ancient art in such a functional context was entirely new to me. It was like walking through an open air museum with pieces more valuable than I've seen in the South Asian wing of the MET.

From Kathmandu Valley

From Kathmandu Valley

The old shopping arcade of Asan Tole seemed unchanged for thousands of years. The brilliant colors and smells of the spice and vegetable markets still linger in my mind - what a sensory experience.
I've always had a connection to Hanuman (so says my Father) and arriving in Kathmandu's Hannuman Durbar Square was a wonderful experience. When you manage to find a quiet spot and finally convince all the touts and tour guides that you are 'ok' ... you begin to soak in the wonder of the place. Watching the flickering butter lamps and merchants selling vegetables in the open air -- I can't help but imagine how little it has really changed over time. I had my first encounter with a Sadhu (actually two) and a living goddess (who knew ? ) aka a Kumari in Durbhar Square and that is a right of passage of sorts in Nepal. One of Sadhu's them spoke decent English and they both insisted I take their photo for a nominal fee of course; How could I resist ? The Kumari was a young (pre-pubescent) girl who is worshiped as the incarnation of the goddess Durga. It was fascinating to see people line up to bring this young girl gifts and offerings in her palace compound. I can still see the third eye painted on her forehead.

From Kathmandu Valley

Nepal, at least for now, stands in defiance to the one world monoculture. I encourage you to wander there if your circumstances permit. Have an open mind, don't fight it, and Namaste.